28 November 2011 - Adventskranz

Today marks the first week of Advent. I admit that the concept of the four weeks of Advent is a bit new to me. However, I clearly missed the boat on this here in Germany last year, so I decided to be ready this year.

As background, for both Catholics and Protestants, Advent begins the first Sunday after November 26. In German-speaking Europe, one of the key trappings of Advent celebration is the Adventskranz, which is a wreath you put on the table and to which you somehow associate four candles, one for each week of Advent. Starting the first day of Advent (today, in this case), you begin burning one candle, then you add another candle for each additional week. It is, admittedly, unclear to me if one must dispose of the unburned candles at the end of this festivity, or if somehow you burn them all out on Christmas day itself.

Anyway, I missed this entirely last year. So last week I convinced my neighbors to go Adventskranz and candle shopping with me and got a nice mixed bough kranz and the requisite four candles. Some people are really crafty and somehow situate the candles amongst the boughs, but I just see that as a fire hazard (plus I am not craft enough to figure out how to do that). So my four candles are in the center of the wreath and situated on a non-flammable bowl so that neither the flames nor melting wax will touch the boughs and create a fire hazard. We'll see how this works.

Anyway, happy Advent to the Adventists and all others celebrating the holiday season.

24 May 2010 - Locks

("Love Lockdown" by Kanye West)

Warning - this is generally going to be a very boring, albeit brief, posting for most people. I nevertheless felt compelled to share (even though it took my nearly six months to finish the draft of this posting!).

This weekend the weather was really beautiful and I took advantage of it and spent some time along the mighty Main River (note that the official name of Frankfurt is Frankfurt am Main, meaning Frankfurt located on the Main). Saturday I took a long walk towards Offenbach and discovered that there was a set of locks there alongside, of course, a dam. There was a pedestrian bridge that ran over all of it (with a grated walkway that might make the faint of heart a bit unnerved), so I headed up to take a look. I guess if you've seen one set of locks, perhaps you've seen them all, but I nevertheless enjoy watching the action. This set was quite long and capable of fitting two long barges at a time. There is a surprising amount of commercial traffic on the Main. One sees barges carrying coal, fluids of some sort, and who knows what else. I have heard that much of the traffic is controlled by Deutsche Bahn, which of course also owns the German railway system, which would seem to give them quite a nice control of transit of goods within the country.

There were three sets of locks. The first two appeared to be two separate lanes for commercial purposes. They were each long enough to contain two barges. In addition, there was a set of doors in the center, so if only one barge was present, the entire lane didn't have to be filled or drained (I am sure those are not the technical terms, but you catch my drift (no pun intended), right?).

The third lock appears to be for leisure craft and is more or less a self-serve lock, which I found fascinating. I hung around to watch this in action. It requires at least two individuals to operate this lock. Essentially, the boat must pull into the lane and let out a passenger, who then operates the lock. The pilot of the boat then pulls forward into the lock area. The ousted passenger then goes to a terminal/interface that is about the size of an ATM machine, but doesn't seem to be quite so advanced. I'm not sure what the machine says, but the operator must essentially push a large button to start the filling/draining process. And continue to hold until it is done. So the guy I was watching got pretty tired of pressing the button with his hand and engaged in a variety of positions mostly involving leaning up against the machine. Who says booties aren't useful for things other than sitting? Then, once the proper level is achieved, the doors are opened, the operator goes down to the lower or higher area where the boat is now located and jumps back into the boat. Now, there doesn't appear to be a way to access the leisure locks, if you will, other than from the river itself. So if your buddy pulls out without waiting for you to jump back in, it's a long swim to shore....

The following day I got on my bike and rode the other direction along the Main. Much to my surprise, I encountered another set of locks. It was more or less the same as the other set of locks, but with a slightly more rural flavor. Just as fascinating to watch.

14 November 2010 - Hudson's 20,000 kilometer day!

("Drive" by Vanessa Hudgens)

I think those of you reading this blog realize by now that I have an unusual (I refuse to call it unnatural) bond with my car (codename, Hudson). Under my lease, I am allotted 20,000 kilometers per year, so at 1.5 years into the lease I should have about 30,000 kilometers on him. Alas, as of the beginning of this past week, I was only about to finally (FINALLY!) crack the 20,000 barrier. I had planned a long road trip this summer that would have helped in this regard, but it was scrapped for a variety of reasons. But I thought it would be wrong, just WRONG, for him to hit 20,000 kilometers on something as mundane as the commute to work. No, he needed the wind on his shield, the asphalt of the Autobahn under his summer shoes, the bugs sucked into his grill. We needed, in short, a roadtrip. So a roadtrip we had.

Borrowing from my aborted summer roadtrip playbook, we (yes, I refer to us collectively) headed south. We drove from Frankfurt to Stuttgart on Friday night and stayed at the Le Meridien Stuttgart that is easily one of my favorite SPG properties in Germany (though the ramps to their underground garage are wickedly narrow!). Then on Saturday morning, we went to the Mercedes-Benz Museum in Stuttgart (see separate posting) so Hudson could recall the superiority of his own provenance (why have a three-spoke star when you can have four rings????). And then on we drove to Lenggries, which is in southern Bavaria about an hour out of Munich.

So, why Lenggries? Well, let's be honest, it was only on my not-so-familiar-with-Bavaria radar because it is home to a Starwood property, the Four Points Sheraton Brauneck. Brauneck refers to the nearest mountain, Lenggries being at the foot of an area known both for its skiing and hiking. A very good start. Did a bit more research and it seemed like it might be a nice, restful destination.

The hotel was in "downtown" Lenggries, rather than a bit further out in the wilderness or higher up in the mountains than I had hoped. But it was fine, albeit what I would refer to as a "humble" property - clean with friendly staff but no bells and whistles like an executive lounge or an upgrade to a suite. The proximity to greater metropolitan Lenggries was interesting, though, and I thought a nice wander and perhaps some retail therapy were in order. I arrived around 4 PM, which unfortunately was the time that all the stores in the quaint little town closed. Doh! It was also getting dark, so I only had a little bit of time to wander around. But the next morning I awoke at the crack of dawn as sunlight filtered in over the tops of the mountain peaks and decided to set out for a wander in the town and the woods at the base and leading into the mountains. Both were really, really quite pretty as you can see by the picture posted above.

But after the hike as I headed back from the mountains and was passing by what appeared to be the primary village church, it looked like something was about to happen. There were a few people standing around in Bavarian attire who seemed to be waiting for something. Hmmm... And then I saw a group of guys standing around in a sort of Bavarian uniform -- with drums!! Something certainly was going to happen. I mean, you don't just have a drummer gathering without expecting something to happen, right? So I decided to hang around, even though I didn't have my cool leather coat that I bought in Austria that might allow me to at least kind of blend. My thistle-colored (okay, lilac or light purple) Marmot shell wasn't quite so blending.... But in any event or color, I was not to be disappointed.

After standing quietly and trying not to look too American, the event started. The drummers picked up their drums, as did a Bavarian band with their instruments. And out of the old town church began a very large procession of men in Bavarian attire carrying a

variety of colorful flags and banners. Hmmmm.... The drummers led the band and the rest of the entourage around the small square, stopping in an angled formation around a podium that had been set up and was swathed in the German flag. Next to it was a sort of eternal flame that was burning - not Olympic size, but sufficiently sized for this venue. In the background, the German and Bavarian flags flapped in the crisp breeze. A Catholic priest made a short speech, which was followed by a considerably longer one from a protestant minister, and then the priest led the audience in reciting the Lord's Prayer.

It was all very fascinating and very somber. It clearly related to remembering those who had died. This was a few days after 11 November when Veterans Day and Remembrance Day take place in the US and the UK, respectively, so I assumed that this event was related somehow to that. My nascent German skills picked up quotes on not forgetting the dead, there were some references to World War II, and the names of the eight German soldiers who had perished in Afghanistan this year were also read. Even though I didn't understand everything, I still found the experience very moving, much as my eyes always fill with tears when the US flag is waving and we're singing the national anthem or even saying the pledge of allegiance (the latter of which I can't remember when I participated in that, but it has been far too long).

I did a bit more research when I got home on this celebration and it turns out that it is slightly different than the holidays in the US and UK. Germany does not celebrate the armistice itself, but has a national day of mourning which seems to be more similar to All Saints Day that I celebrated a few years ago in Guatemala. Germany's national day of mourning (Volkstrauertag) has been celebrated since 1952 and is held on the Sunday before the first Sunday of Advent. While it is a secular holiday, churches have their own special take on the holiday, with the Catholic church celebrating All Souls Day and the Lutheran church celebrating Eternity Sunday. So I'm guessing the protestant minister who spoke may have been Lutheran.

All in all, Hudson logged about 1,000 kilometers on this trip. He arrived home dirty with quite a few bugs on the windshield and in the grill (apparently we haven't had cold enough weather to kill them all yet?) but a lovely twinkle in his daytime running lamps.

13 November 2010 - Mercedes-Benz Museum

("Do you want to ride in my Mercedes, boy?" - Pebbles)

Now first, let me reiterate that I am an avid and undying Audi fan. That said, there are other fine German automotive vehicles produced over here, so it only made sense that I would visit at least one of the two such manufacturer museums when in Stuttgart. I chose Mercedes-Benz and will leave Porsche for another day.

The Benz museum has gotten high marks for its architecture, and with good reason. It is really a both beautiful and functional building that reminds me of a cross between the Guggenheim Museum in New York and the Reichstag dome in Berlin. After purchasing your ticket (EUR 8) on the lower level, you pass through one of two areas where you collect your audio guide (included in the ticket price) and then get on what I can best describe as an elevator capsule that whisks you to the top floor of the museum. It is said to have a double-helix structure inside, which I understand from a DNA perspective but less from an architectural perspective. But anyway, you basically walk down a series of ramps interspersed with landings with exhibits until you reach the bottom. Lots of windows on the exterior as well, so plenty of natural light. Otherwise, very industrial looking with exposed concrete.

Also quite organized and high-tech. It is, after all, in Germany! There were numerous interactive displays regarding various technologies and development of the vehicles, for example. And even the audio guide was a bit different than what I am used to in museum. Instead of having to punch in a number for an exhibit, you point the device at a dark spot in the description of the exhibit, which must create some sort of WiFi or infrared connection. The display on the audio guide device then displays a menu of recordings from which you can choose, ranging from a general overview of the vehicle/exhibit, technology involved, design, and even a special menu option for kids. Each one indicates the length of the recording so you can figure out how much time to invest. Quite slick.

As you walk down the ramp, there is a fascinating series of signs/displays starting with the invention of various inventions by Carl Benz and other founding fathers and including both world history, German history, automotive history, and Benz history. It was done in a really fascinating and integrated way that helped you understand the historical context of transportation, world events and the corresponding developments of the company. And the world history events really ran the gamut. A few examples: women's suffrage, development of branding and trademark law, social programs and workers rights, prohibition, the German Women's Automobile Association, forced laborers, Elvis, ET, break dancing, Boris Becker's Wimbledon victory, world wide web, Dolly the sheep, the return of Hong Kong to China, introduction of the Euro. Fascinating.

I learned a few interesting tidbits, though. First, the origin of the Mercedes brand. I had thought that this was the name of Benz's daughter. Not so. When cars were first introduced, they were something only the wealthy had and they hired a chauffeur to drive the vehicle, just as they might have someone to drive their horse-drawn carriage, and particularly since the vehicles often broke down and the driver needed to understand the mechanics involved. But as technology advanced, there emerged a class of "gentlemen drivers" - rich guys who decided to get behind the wheel and drive the cars themselves. Men wanting control? Really? And you can imagine what came next. Yes, men wanting to go faster. (While this may be true, I would also note that as I chick I also appreciate control and speed, so I don't mean to be sexist. And again, note above the inclusion in the history exhibits that of the German Women's Automobile Association, which was founded in 1926.) Anyway, one of Benz's customers asked him to create a car that he could race. Benz was happy to do this and the customer named the car (just as one might name a ship) after his daughter, Mercedes. He was very successful in races, and thus began the recognition of Mercedes as a brand.

The museum has a series of small exhibits throughout the museum titled "33 Extra," and they ranged from the development of the standard ordering of clutch, brake and gas pedals (influenced by the German military way back when) to CB radios to the boxes for drive-in theaters that were mounted on vehicles. I found two of particular interest, though.

The first related to steering wheelings. Early on, the steering wheel was located in the middle of vehicles, but this wasn't particularly practical, especially if anyone else wanted to sit in the front seat (and who doesn't want to be up front?!). So the wheel was moved to the right side so that the driver could keep an eye on the side of the road to make sure he (gentlemen drivers, remember) didn't land in the ditch. However, as more and more cars were on the road, the other drivers (perhaps those distracting pretty lady drivers?) became more of a nuisance, so the steering wheel was moved to the left so the driver could keep an eye on oncoming traffic. Alas, no mention of why traffic in the UK moves the other direction, but the UK would still have the driver closest to the traffic as in other countries where the wheel is located on the lefthand side.

The other interesting item was the development of windshield wipers. Of course, the first vehicles didn't even have windshields, so this wasn't too quick to develop. In Germany, Prince Heinrich of Prussia (go Preuschers!) came up with the idea in 1908 of a handheld device covered in linen that could be drawn across the windshield to clean it up, though of course this only really worked if you had an open vehicle. The Americans were a few years ahead of Germany, though. Apparently Mary Anderson submitted a patent application in 1903 for a more advanced device, having gotten the idea while riding a streetcar in New York in

the winter.

The company notes in the historical pieces along the ramp a few things about its workers through the years. Two items were particularly interesting to me. First, the company shared a bit about its use of forced laborers during World War II. I realized, of course, that like pretty much all German companies that Daimler-Benz had contributed its manufacturing capabilities to the war effort, whether willingly or not. But the used of forced laborers was a bit new to me. Essentially, the able-bodied men of the company had been forced to join the military, so there was no one to make anything. So they paid the German government/military for access to the individuals who were in the custody of the military. Within these forced laborers, there was a clear hierarchy that was visible even in the housing of the individuals. Those from western Europe stayed in inns. Those from eastern Europe stayed in a sort of barracks. And those who were already living in concentration or work camps continued to stay there and were bused back and forth and were under SS supervision at all times. The company says that at the end of the war they tried to contact these forced laborers and pay them some sort of compensation, but.... Anyway you look at it, yikes!

On a positive note, though, the company said that it was among the first to provide more benefits to workers, such as paid time off and, in the early 1900s, reducing the workweek to "only" 9.5 hours for 6 days a week. They also created Daimler soda that was distributed to workers. Out of the goodness of their hearts? Not so much. They were doing it to reduce workers' consumption of fruit wine. Nice....

And, of course, there were the cars themselves. Might seem like it would be hard to pick a favorite among all the nice cars they have made throughout time and especially when faced with some of their celebrity cars (e.g. one of the Popemobiles, Princess Diana's SL that caused such a stir in the UK, Hirohito's ride). But it's not. Hands down, my favorite is the 1936 500 K Spezial Roadster pictured here. Just a beautiful design, flowing and sensual as can be. And even back then, it had a top speed of 100 mph. Yes, miles. The display said that the price was 28,000 Reichsmark, or about €98,000. Not clear whether that is in today's EUR or what it would have been in the 30s. Either way, a nice chunk of change. And no doubt worth every scent of it.

But wait till I go back to the Audi museum and we see some real cars!!